I didn’t mean to imply that it is ‘just’ a matter of disclosure. We already have a good base what ‘organic’ and ‘Bio-D’ means and as you and I both agree, an identification of the mass market with labels of health. And this implies whether sulfites are added.

But…I don’t believe that labeling or legislation will happen anytime soon past this. For cultural reasons and because the complexity of wine will create endless debate on what should be ‘certified’.

So with this base and disclosure we are well started.

Re: labels of natural or authentic or whatever. They will happen from the ground up, around different groups, different communities and different retail outlets. It’s the ‘natural’ order of things and the way brands develop.

Me…I love Natural as a superset category and until someone convinces me differently or gags me I will continue to use it:)

I think I prefer the latter term as it does suggest that the wines are true to their location – respect terroir and use traditional grape varieties – with minimum interference or intervention (as little use of herbicides, fungicides, sugar, sulphur as possible and as sensible, bearing in mind the balancing act that small-scale winemakers have in order to maintain their livelihood).

‘Organic’ is a term that is generally understood and is now well-established. ‘Biodynamic’ is certainly understood in France. I’m not so sure about the UK; I think Brits still consider is a bit loopy! But people who are interested in buying quality wines and in health issues will generally appreciate what is involved in the process of making ‘organic’ wines. They are also likely to buy organic fruit, vegetables, milk, bread, etc. And they recognise labeling of food as ‘organic’, ‘bio’ or ‘demeter’. So I don’t agree with Arnie that it is just a matter of ‘disclosure and transparency’. What would one put on the label of ‘natural’ wine? Or ‘natural’ fruit, vegetables, milk, bread? I think that introducing the term ‘natural’ just muddies the water (or wine!).

I think that you’ve raised some very important points, especially that the industry itself is struggling to communicate – that’s exactly why I want the debate to continue.

A couple of specific issues you mentioned that I would like to address:
1) You mention that people are looking for healthy products including wine. There is no evidence that organic, biodynamic, or ‘natural’ wines are healthier for consumption than any other wine, apart from the miniscule number that are sulphur-free being healthier for the small number of people who are medically proven to be allergic to sulphur dioxide (many believe wrongly it is SO2 that causes any bad reaction that they get to wine).
2) You said “This is about disclosure and transparency of information” and I so agree with this, that is precisely what I was saying about the term ‘natural wine’ being meaningless. Frankly, even with legislation in place, organic and biodynamic labels don’t give much detailed information either – there is a lot of latitude and interpretation about how each certification is interpreted. Sustainable likewise. These are some of the problems that the industry needs to work on in this continuing debate.

You are lucky in your part of the world with both the demographics you have, the choice of wines and wine stores/restaurants etc available, and with the average spend there must be, that you receive so much information about the wines before you buy. I don’t believe that to be the case for the vast majority of wine purchases around the world including the vast majority (but not all) of the wine purchased in the UK.

Overall, I know we agree on much more than we disagree upon, and thank you for your compliments!

Thanks for putting in the time to lay this out.

Crisp and clear and thoughtful. You are one of my most revered experts. And a friend.

I take a different point of view.

I don’t see a consumer world wrapped in confusion.

Winemakers who embrace a definition of natural do it because they want to. Some embrace this as part of how they sell, some don’t.

Consumers understand that fruit is either organic or not, and often ask for clarity on whether there are sulfites added and does this really matter.

I think it is the wine industry itself, struggling to understand how to communicate to its customers.

And certainly, there are idiots who market poorly and misuse terminology. Building a system that focuses on the exceptions is a sure route to bad decisions and poor rules.

But it really annoys me that the industry (and I say this lovingly Wink) feels the need to state that it may be organic but that doesn’t mean it is good.

Organic has a legal meaning in the states and Europe. It say’s nothing about quality. Neither does the origin of the grapes, the year of the vintage. Quality exists in the taste of the consumer, no where else.

People search by category. Place. Year. Grape. Type. And whether it is Organic.

I wish there was a name for fear of labels and change because this is what this feels like.

This discussion ignores that people want healthy products including wine. They also want great and interesting wine recommended by people they trust.

So, how should they find this?

In the states at least, restaurants, specialty shops, importers, distributors are seeking out producers which, to their tastes and to their definition, are great natural wines. They are gathering the information on the grapes, the additives, and more and communicating that down the line to the consumer.

We are shopping where that information is.

Handfuls of wine shops and wine bars and hundreds, possibly thousands of restaurants with the wine lists notated on whether the wine is Organic, Bio-D and Sustainable.

So…this discussion is not about whether all wine is good. Or all natural wine is good. Or what a definition of natural is that suits most people.

This is about disclosure and transparency of information coupled with individual taste.

The market will vote with their dollars and at least in my isolated corner of the world, really great wine shops and bars, innovative restaurants are seeking out great natural wines and steadily (and without confusion) educating and informing and building a fan base for this non interventionist approach to wine.

Change happens from the ground up, from the consumers, not from the industry or legislative body down. I feel this is happening.

Thanks again for raising this discussion. It got my blood boiling on a cold winter day.

I commend anyone interested in these practices to read Tom’s blog, the Vine Route, just click on his name to reach it.